There’s a certain magic in Goma that lingers long after you leave—the smoky silhouette of Nyiragongo volcano at dawn, the gentle lap of Lake Kivu against volcanic black sand, the sound of Congolese rumba drifting from street corners. I first arrived here under cloudy skies and left with a heart full of stories. In this travel journal, I’ll share the cultural insights, unexpected adventures, and local flavor of a city that defies expectations.

First Impressions: A City Born from Fire and Water

Touching down at Goma International Airport, I was greeted by mountain-air freshness mixed with the scent of charcoal grills. At the city’s edge, vividly painted moto-taxis weave through roads scorched by lava flows—reminders of the 2002 eruption that reshaped neighborhoods and lives. Locals moved back, rebuilding open-air markets and lakeside promenades. I felt the resilient pulse of a community determined to thrive.

Conquering Nyiragongo: A Volcanic Adventure

If you only do one thing in Goma, make it the Nyiragongo hike. Starting in the dark at 11 p.m., your guide leads you through eucalyptus forests under a blanket of stars. By sunrise, the crater rim reveals a bubbling lava lake that glows like molten gold. I’ll never forget the hush as we sat on volcanic rock, sipping instant coffee and watching smoldering rivers flow below. Pro tip: pack sturdy hiking boots, warm layers, and plenty of water—temperatures swing from tropical warmth to alpine chill in minutes.

Lake Kivu and Hidden Cafés

After the adrenaline of volcano trekking, I traded hiking boots for flip-flops and wandered down to Lake Kivu. Along the shore, I discovered cozy lakeside cafés serving café mocha and homemade banana bread—home comforts in the heart of Africa. My favorite spot was Kivu Beans Café, where I’d set up my laptop for remote work while watching fishermen push colorful wooden canoes into calm waters.

The golden hour on Lake Kivu feels like a painting in motion: fishermen hauling nets, children splashing in the shallows, and fishermen’s laughter echoing off the hills of Rwanda in the distance.

Flavors of the East: Markets, Street Food, and Rum

Goma’s markets are a feast for the senses. At Marché de Libération, I sidled between stalls piled with sweet passion fruit, flaming-red chilis, and glossy manioc roots. Street vendors serve up makayabu (smoked fish) with fried plantains, and I fell hard for sambaza (tiny fried lake sardines) drizzled with spicy pepper sauce.

In the evenings, small bars pulse with live rumba and salsa nights—Congolese musicians setting the dance floor alight. I most enjoyed sipping locally distilled rum at a tucked-away bar called Chez Momo, where the owner taught me a few Lingala phrases over the clink of ice in my glass.

Practical Tips for Visiting Goma

• Safety: Stick to daylight hours for solo explorations and hire a local guide for volcano treks. Goma’s main avenues are safe and lively, but exercise common sense at night.
• Visas: Most visitors require a DRC visa applied online in advance—allow at least two weeks. Always carry photocopies of your passport and visa.
• Weather: Warm, humid days—pack light layers, a rain jacket, and sun protection. Evenings on Nyiragongo summit can drop near freezing.
• Connectivity: MTN and Vodacom both offer 4G SIM cards; data is surprisingly affordable. Many cafés double as co-working spots.
• Language: French and Lingala are widely spoken. Learning a few key Lingala phrases goes a long way in markets and bars.

Hidden Gems Beyond the Usual Path

– Visit the Memorial Center at Goma to learn the city’s recent history through powerful photo exhibitions. – Hire a canoe and paddle across to small fishing villages on Idjwi Island, sampling palm wine with local families. – Explore the nearby hot springs at Mugote, where locals bathe in naturally heated pools beside rolling vineyards.

Conclusion: Why Goma Stays with You

Goma isn’t polished or pampered—it’s raw, resilient, and richly rewarding. From witnessing fiery lava illumination to savoring chilled rumba nights by Lake Kivu, this city challenges your expectations and charms you with its authenticity. Whether you’re a digital nomad searching for inspiration or an adventurer craving volcanic trails, Goma’s volcanic vistas and lakeside breezes invite you to write your own story here.

Follow more of my journey on @ureymt and view photography highlights at @curiocity.lens.