Arrival: First Impressions of Abidjan’s Pulse

Stepping off the plane into Félix-Houphouët-Boigny International Airport, I was greeted by thick, warm air and the hum of mototaxis weaving through traffic. Within minutes I found myself on Boulevard de France, surrounded by high-rises, bustling intersections, and the unmistakable scent of grilled fish drifting from roadside stalls. Abidjan doesn’t wait for you to adjust—it invites you to dive headfirst into its rhythms, from the clang of metal carts at dawn to the thumping coupé-décalé bass that echoes down every boulevard at night.

Morning at Treichville Market: A Feast for the Senses

At 7 a.m., I joined locals in Treichville market, a sprawling labyrinth of stalls selling everything from dried fish (called garba) to vibrant textiles. The air was thick with chatter: women in colorful pagnes haggling over bushels of fresh produce, men unloading palm oil barrels, children darting between baskets of ripe mangoes. I sipped a sweet ginger juice while sampling plantain chips dusted with salt. Each bite felt like a snapshot of Ivorian life—simple, honest, and deeply communal.

My favorite stop was the attiéké stand, where cassava couscous steamed in giant wicker baskets. Served with grilled tilapia, spicy pepper sauce, and chopped onions, it quickly became my go-to lunch. Don’t forget to learn a few French phrases—"Combien ça coûte?" and "C’est bon?" go a long way in starting friendly conversations and securing the best price.

Afternoon Art and Coupé-Décalé Vibes

Post-market, I hopped in a shared taxi for the Plateau district, Abidjan’s business heart. Here, modern art galleries sit amid glass towers. I wandered into the Galerie Cécile Fakhoury, admiring contemporary Ivorian painters whose canvases explore identity, migration, and the city’s frenetic energy. Outside, murals depicting women draped in headwraps brighten otherwise sterile high-speed roads.

By 4 p.m., cafés in Cocody called my name. I settled into a shady terrace, iced café touba in hand—a ginger-spiced coffee unique to West Africa. Through the speakers floated coupé-décalé hits that had everyone tapping toes. Later, I caught an impromptu street performance near the Ancien Immeuble SIC, where dancers in crisp white shirts and straw hats executed flawless routines to DJ-led rhythms. The city’s soundtrack is a reminder that art and life here are inseparable.

Sunset on the Ébrié Lagoon

As daylight waned, I made my way to the lagoon front, where fishermen unloaded their boats and children skipped stones off the pier. The sky flamed pink and orange, reflecting off calm waters. I boarded a wooden pirogue for a short cruise toward Île Boulay. The guide offered fresh coconut water, and we drifted past stilt villages and sprawling mangroves.

Back on shore, the maquis—simple open-air eateries—lit up. Under strings of bare bulbs, friends shared grilled corn, peanut-buttered yams, and cold Flag beers. Conversations flowed from local politics to weekend plans. Watching the sun set over Abidjan’s waterfront is a moment I’ll carry with me: a pause between chaos and calm, when the city exhales.

Practical Tips for First-Time Visitors

• Language: French is the official language. A few basic phrases show respect and open doors to friendlier prices.
• Getting Around: Look for licensed taxis (they usually display a green license plate). "Wôrô wôrô" shared taxis are inexpensive but can be crowded.
• Safety: Major neighborhoods like Plateau, Cocody, and Treichville are generally safe during the day. Avoid poorly lit streets at night and keep valuables close.
• Currency: The West African CFA franc is used here. ATMs are widely available, but carry cash in smaller bills for markets.
• Connectivity: SIM cards from MTN and Orange offer good 4G coverage. Free Wi-Fi can be found in many cafés and hotels.
• Respect Local Customs: Dress modestly when visiting religious sites and ask permission before photographing people, especially in rural or traditional communities.

Conclusion: Why Abidjan Captured My Heart

Abidjan isn’t a postcard city—its streets can be chaotic, its sidewalks cracked, its traffic daunting. But that’s precisely its charm. In every honk, every colorful stall, every drumbeat, you sense a metropolis rewriting its own story. For travelers craving authenticity, Abidjan delivers: a tapestry of sights, sounds, and flavors that lingers long after you’ve left its shores. Whether you’re here for the markets at dawn or the lagoon’s golden hour, this city’s rhythm invites you to dance along.

See more snapshots from my journey at @curiocity.lens and catch up on other adventures at ureymutuale.com.